Artist JR Uses Trains As His Canvas —See Inside His Latest Masterpiece
📝 usncan Note: Artist JR Uses Trains As His Canvas —See Inside His Latest Masterpiece
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The lounge area on L’Observatoire, the new sleeper carriage on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express
Photography: Ludovic Balay; Courtesy of Belmond
I could see clear blue skies in the background of my video call with JR, the French street artist turned global superstar. He was sporting a hat, dark sunglasses and a ready smile; accessories that are meant to protect from the Provençal sunshine but are also the signature of the elusive yet influential contemporary artist.
Known as an “artivist”, JR is celebrated for his impactful work that blends creativity with critical thinking. He uses streets and buildings as his canvas, and his multimedia pieces are often laced with poetic and progressive messages. From the Pyramids of Giza to the Louvre in Paris, JR’s public installations span large-scale photographs and trompe l’œil optical illusions that catch your attention and hold a deeper message.
French artist JR in front of his installation “La Nascita” (“The birth”), in Piazza Duca d’Aosta, in front of the Central Station in Milan, Italy. The installation is the first “sculptural anamorphosis” created by JR, conceived as a large trompe-l’œil to tell the origin of the surrounding railway station. (Photo by Emanuele Cremaschi/Getty Images)
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When we talked, he was kicking off his annual summer break, where he intentionally slows down and largely stays put in the French countryside. “I travel so much and over the summer I stop flying and reboot,” he says. On the odd weekend, he indulges in his favorite mode of transport—trains—and takes short trips elsewhere in Europe.
JR, who grew up in the Parisian suburbs, has long been fascinated by trains. “I used trains early in my career—it’s an amazing way to take a piece of art from one place to the other.” One of his most memorable projects is ‘Women Are Heroes’ (2007), in which he placed eyes on a train carriage. “I love how your work gets to travel everywhere”.
A New Journey
In 2020, JR sat down with Belmond, the luxury travel company whose iconic collection includes the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE), a mythical train steeped in legend and whose name alone conjures the most glamorous journeys.
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE) is so steeped in legend, its name alone conjures the most glamorous journeys.
Courtesy of Belmond
“Everyone knows the VSOE. Even though you’ve never been aboard, you definitely have a perception of it,” he says. “It’s the biggest celebrity of all. Have you seen how many people take pictures when it’s stopped at a station?”
The collaboration presented an opportunity to create more than just a moving art piece, but to design an entire carriage beginning from its lovely bones. “I would have never imagined that one day I’ll get to build my own train carriage. It’s a dream I wouldn’t have had the courage to have,” he says.
When he first stepped inside the VSOE, JR says he was struck by the longevity of the pre-war interiors, most of which was made during the Jazz Age. “The details expressed the passion of the craftsmen who created these carriages almost a hundred years ago. I thought we should also make something timeless, something that will live beyond me.”
The lounge area and library aboard the L’Observatoire
Photography: Ludovic Balay; Courtesy of Belmond
Four years in the making, the result of the collaboration is L’Observatoire—a truly bespoke and artistic sleeper carriage that’s a new addition to the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. JR handpicked every element, from the general layout down to the smallest graphic detail.
From the outset, the goal was to build the grandest residence on rails, combining the richness of a ‘cabinet of curiosities’ and the wonder of being inside an astronomical observatory.
Intricate marquetry adorns the entire sleeper carriage
Photography: Ludovic Balay; Courtesy of Belmond
To achieve this, a tribe of artisans were brought together—the most talented hands in Europe with expertise in marble, stained glass, wood marquetry and more. “The level of craftsmanship is mind blowing,” he says.
He spotlights the atelier that did the wood marquetry for L’Observatoire. JRs studio did the drawings then handed it over to them to realize. “They actually brought every drawing we did to life, you know? That is not something that you do overnight. You have to find the right wood and carefully think about how the light is gonna go through the wood.”
Seek and you shall find
A true iconoclast, JR has built his name on creating monumental artwork, so scaling down to a smaller space posed a different challenge. Whether it’s a barren desert in California or the slums of Nairobi, he is a master of crafting an immersive experience—something also true of the intimate carriage, L’Observatoire.
From the artpieces to the oculus, L’Observatoire is truly one-of-a-kind residence on rails
Photography: Ludovic Balay; Courtesy of Belmond
An element that he wouldn’t compromise on was the addition of an oculus, so travellers can see the sky above as they cross borders. “It was something that I had dreamed of from the beginning as it has never been done on a train. Thank God for the incredible engineers of the VSOE, who created this technical feat”.
Like many of his works, there’s a solid message behind the art. In this suite, the messages are a bit more whimsical in nature and invite viewers to a treasure hunt. JR is partial to an installation set in the tea room where there’s a train maquette that has a running video of his team. Throughout hours of footage, you may suddenly catch a clue that leads you to his first Leica camera or other concealed items within the suite.
More than just a bespoke art piece, this special train carriage is a way to observe the outside but also enter the universe of JR. “Maybe someone will find those hidden messages, maybe someone won’t. You’ll just have to ride the train to find out.”
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